The small boat was busy and its decks crowded. As we set sail, children and adults chattered and jostled good-humouredly finding a comfortable space in which to spend the journey. Once clear of the harbour the Sound of Sleat greeted us with sparkling, blue-bright waves and I thrilled to the feeling of adventure that comes only with the salty scent of sea spray.

Kittiwake, herring gulls and black-backed gulls clustered astern, screaming their approval at our departure. Etched like snow-white flakes on the vast canvas of the silver and gold sky, gannets hovered and dived for fish. Ahead lay our destination, the tiny hamlet of Inverie on the Knoydart peninsula, 45 minutes by boat from Mallaig at the end of the A830, the Road to the Isles.

Knoydart is one of Scotland’s last great wilderness areas. It enfolds 55,000 acres and lies to west of Fort William between ‘heaven’ and ‘hell’; the names given to the two fjord-like sea lochs, Nevis to the south and Hourn in the north, that guard it. Knoydart has been designated a National Scenic Area for its diversity of flora and fauna and for its outstanding beauty.

It is also known as ‘The Rough Bounds’ because of the majesty of the landscape. Six Munros (mountains over 3,000ft) crowd the horizon; Ladhar Bheinn (the claw hill), Sgurr na Ciche (the peak of the breast), Garbh Chioch (the big rough place), Meall Buidhe (the yellow hill), Luinne Bheinn (the hill of anger) and, across Loch Hourn, Beinn Sgritheall (the gravel hill).

Apart from by boat, the only way in is on foot from Strathan at the end of the public road at the head of Loch Arkaig, a taxing 16-mile trek. The path climbs though Glen Dessary, amidst the ragged mountains where Bonnie Prince Charlie hid after his defeat at Culloden in 1746, to the ruins of Finiskig on the shores of Loch Nevis. The route then winds past Camasrory and Carnoch before climbing steeply through Gleann Meadail and down to the River Inverie.

Find the River Inverie on OS Map 33, Loch Alsh & Glen Shiel, Scale 1:50,000. The source of the river lies in the web of feeder streams that flow down from between Stob na Chearcaill (849m) in the west at grid ref: 845029 and Meall Buidhe (946m) at grid ref: 850990 in the east. The river reaches the sea in Loch Nevis after a turbulent journey of approximately four and a half miles.

Rough Bounds
Fishing on the river, and on the lochs in this part of the Rough Bounds, is in the hands of Kilchoan Estate, carefully managed by the incomparable Drew Harris. Drew is one of those people who does not understand the meaning of the word ‘impossible’ and showed it through his boundless enthusiasm and obvious love for the lands he looks after. All fishing is by fly only and the estate prefer visitors to use barbless hooks.

The impact and blight of factory fish farming has hurt the little river, but the Kilchoan Estate has a restocking policy in place which has been running for five years. During that time upwards of 40,000 fingerlings, or fed fry, have been introduced to the system and there are good signs of recovery in both salmon and sea-trout numbers; although at the present time the estate operate a catch-and-release policy until salmonids stocks have fully recovered.

The river has 16 named pools, and on its way to the sea it collects in the waters of the Meadail River, a major tributary that begins life on the southern slopes of mighty Meall Buidhe. The Meadail joins the Inverie at one of the most productive pools on the stream, the Long Pool. This deep pool invariably holds fish until there is sufficient water to allow them to continue upstream to spawn. The main runs of sea-trout and salmon start in July. Thereafter, sport is very much dependent upon a lot of rain; generally, in these ‘airts’, a not infrequent occurrence.

The Inverie is a narrow river and a single-handed rod will cope with most eventualities. However, to effectively cover some of the lies, wading is necessary. But, essentially, you are in salmon stalking country where the rule is fine and far off casting. Keep below the skyline and lengthen line, rather than striding down the river bank. Crossing the fingers can also help, at least is sometimes does for me.

Under Drew’s guidance I fished the river, but, sadly, without much success; unlike the two energetic teenagers I met who had both caught sea trout, including a splendid, fresh-run specimen of just under 4lb in weight. Indeed, if I had caught just two more fish I would have had a brace. The boys were using traditional patterns of flies and had taken their largest fish on a Teal, Blue & Silver.

Along its way, the river passes through one of Scotland’s most dramatic lochs, Loch an Dubh-Lochain, the Black Loch. Find it at grid ref: 33/815004. Loch an Dubh-Lochain is one mile east/west by up to 400 yards wide and can produce exciting sport with both salmon and sea trout. There are also good stocks of excellent wild brown trout that run to the order of 6oz/8oz, although there are much larger fish as well, including ferox and their favourite prey species, Arctic charr.

This is a deep loch, 100ft, and the best of the sport is to be had round the margins, particularly at the east and west ends of the loch. Always pay close attention to areas were feeder burns enter as salmon and sea-trout often lie close to the shore where fresh water flows into a loch. Salmon tend to lie in very shallow water, whereas sea trout seem to be comfortable in deeper water of about 15ft.

To the south of the river, below the summit of Sgurr nan Feadan, lies Loch Bhraomisaig (grid ref: 785973) which is used as the local water supply for the Inverie community. Loch Bhraomisaig is a first-class trout loch with some really splendid fish which can weigh up to and over 4lb in weight. Immediately to the west of Loch Bhraomisaig is a smaller, unnamed lochan at grid ref: 779973) which also holds excellent brown trout.

But the Kilchoan Estate is not only about fishing. It is also one of Scotland’s foremost deer forests and there is plenty for non-fishing members of your party to do whilst you attend to man’s proper function in life, the removal of fish from their natural habitat; whale-watching expeditions; visits to remote, uninhabited islands; stalking red deer with a camera; watching otters at play in the river and along the shores of Loch Nevis. Or simply relax in the outstanding comfort of the estates superbly appointed self-catering cottages. There is also a glorious camp site by the beach with stunning sea views out to the Small Isles.

The other notable, salmon and sea trout stream in Knoydart, the Abhainn Inbhir Ghuiserein, is known locally as the River Guserain. This enters the sea in the Sound of Sleat near Inverguserain. Apart from these waters, there are a number of trout lochs, all difficult of access, but all containing wild brown trout. They are: Little Glaschoille Loch (grid ref: 738008) which lies close to the road from Inverie to Airor (grid ref: 715054); Loch a’Coire a’Phuill (grid ref: 730035) on the hill to the north-east of Sandaig (grid ref: 719020); Loch Coire na Circe (grid ref: 764080) between the crags of Meall na Coille Duibhe (339m) to the north and Na Cruachan (583m) to the south; and the tiny, distant, pools to the north east of Beinn na Caillich (785m) known collectively as Loch Bealach nan Creagan Dubha (grid ref: 810075).

The first requirement, if you are to access some of the remoter trout lochs, is a high-wheel-based vehicle and this only eases you to the start of the long walks involved in reaching them. The rivers are more accessible and may be readily fished with a single-handed rod. Offer salmon and sea trout: Munro Killer, Silver Stoat’s Tail, Blue Charm, Hairy Mary, Willie Gunn, Garry Dog. For the hill lochs, try: Silver Invicta, Grouse & Claret. Offer brown trout Kate McLaren, Black Pennell, Ke-He, Soldier Palmer, Loch Ordie, Greenwell’s Glory, March Brown, Woodcock and Hare-lug, Invicta, Silver Invicta, Silver Butcher and Alexandra.

On my first evening at Inverie, I wandered out to see what I could see. The bay was mirror calm and several yachts lay peacefully at anchor. The smell of peat smoke filled the air and I watched as the crews of the yachts bundled themselves into tiny dinghies and rowed ashore. Most of the occupants seemed to be heading for The Old Forge Inn, so I followed.

Steeping through the door, it was as though I had been transported into an entirely new world. The long bar was thronged with people who were clearly enjoying themselves enormously. Two musicians, guitar and violin, were playing and singing lustily, with the rest of the assembled company joining in. At the end of each piece loud cheers echoed round the room.

The Old Forge Inn is owned and run by the remarkable Ian and Jacqui Robertson and it is the hub of social life in Inverie. Ian told me that most of the 4,000+ visitors who come to Knoydart each year pass through his doors and the pub has attracted an astonishing number of accolades and awards, including the Highlands and Islands Best Visitor Experience in 2007.

It was hard to leave Knoydart, but at 11.00am on a Monday morning I found myself back on the pier awaiting the arrival of the ferry. As we headed out across Loch Nevis towards Mallaig, I watched the village fade and merge into the backdrop of blue-grey mountains. But I was quite certain that I would be back.

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• For further details about sport and self catering accommodation on the Kilchoan Estate, and other information about Knoydart, visit the Kilchoan Estate website at www.kilchoan-knoydart.com. Or email Drew Harris on drewhkilchoan@ontel.com tel: 01687462724.