The small township of Durness in north-west Sutherland lies at the heart of the Land of Clan Mackay. It clings tenaciously to edge of the sea-bird-clad cliffs that protect this remote community from Atlantic storms, and people have lived there for thousands of years; from the Mesolithic hunter-gathers who arrived at the end of the last Ice Age, some 8,000 years ago, to the Neolithic men who followed them and, subsequently, their Pictish descendants.

I am angler and I was drawn to Durness by the lure of its fabulous wild brown trout lochs; as well as to the salmon and sea-trout fishing available on the River Dionard and in the Kyle of Durness. I have known these waters for more than 30 years and they radiate an irresistible appeal that draws me back, again and again, regardless of whether or not I catch anything.

The four Durness limestone trout lochs are, in my opinion, amongst the finest in Europe. They used to be fished from the Cape Wrath Hotel, but are now leased to the Keodale Sheep Stock Club. The club holds sole fishing rights to Borralie and Lanlish, and also to rights on Caladail and Croispol. There are two boats on Caladail, two on Borralie and one on Croispol. Little Lanlish is fished from the bank.

These lochs hold splendid trout and they fight furiously. Catching them, however, is an altogether different matter and this is no place for beginners. The water is crystal clear and the slightest mistake or ill-judged cast puts fish down. When a trout does decide to rise to the well-presented fly, it does so furiously, and at tremendous speed. If you are not paying attention, all that you will feel is a vicious tug, and all that you will see is uproar in the water as the fish disappears back into the depths.

Dry fly … exclusively
If you are accustomed to catching ‘limit bags’ on put-and-take fisheries, you will find that these classic lochs will test all of your patience, and all your angling skills to uttermost limits. Be prepared for blank days, but, when conditions are right, you could have the angling experience of your wildest dreams.

As always, a decent wind helps mightily to disguise evil intent, but, quite often, and particularly in the evenings, the lochs are dead-flat calm. This is the time to change to dry fly and to fish it fine and far off. Indeed, I know a number of anglers who fish dry fly exclusively on the limestone lochs and they invariably produce as good results, if not better, than those of us who stick to traditional wet fly patterns.

Amongst the most noted of these dry fly specialists was my friend, the late Angus McArthur, who used to run the Cape Wrath Hotel. Angus always seemed to be able to attract specimen trout, even in the most adverse conditions, using tiny dressings of flies such as Greenwell’s Glory and Black Spider. Another is Malcolm Muir, from Kilbarchan near Glasgow. Malcolm invariably fishes a small, Black Hopper and is renowned for producing trout of 4lb and upwards whilst doing so. Both fish their flies on a leader of 14ft or more in length.

Loch Borralie is perhaps the most enigmatic of the Durness waters. It drops to a depth of over 100ft towards the north end and contains wild brown trout of exceptional quality; silvery fish, beautifully marked, deep-bodied, with bright, salmon-pink flesh.

The loch also contains specimen Arctic charr (Salvelinus alpinus). Indeed, the previous UK record charr – if I remember correctly, a fish a 1lb 12oz in weight – was taken from Borralie. Divers studying the biology of the loch reported seeing enormous trout during their work; huge, dark shapes gliding serenely by and estimated to weigh in the teens of pounds.

All of which makes Borralie one of Scotland’s most exciting lochs; a place where there is always the chance of catching that elusive ‘one for the glass case’. Boats are moored at the south west corner, where the water is shallow and so clear that you can make out individual markings on the stones on the bottom. This area is a nursery for small fish. But, the most productive part of the loch, I have always found, is along the south east shore.

Draw an imaginary line at an angle of 45° from the point of the island, south east to the far shore, and concentrate your efforts in this triangle. The water is golden-coloured, reflecting the colour of stones on the bottom, shading to emerald green and then dark blue as the margins shelve into the depths. Position your boat just where the water deepens.

As you drift north, high crags crowd the shoreline and I have seen trout rise here just inches from the bank. In normal water levels it is possible to drift through the narrows between the island and the shore, and this area can also produce good sport. But perhaps the best of all times to fish Borralie is from the west bank, on a late June evening. Resist the temptation to wade. Stay back from the edge and cast a short line. The water is deep close to the shore and large fish often cruise up from the depths to feed in the shallows.

Circumspect
My preferred cast, when fishing lochs Caladail, Borralie and Croispol, depending upon the weather and all the other gods in which we anglers put our trust, generally includes the following: Charlie Mclean, Ke-He, Black Pennell, Loch Ordie for the bob, Greenwell’s Glory, March Brown, Woodcock & Hare-lug, Grouse & Claret for the middle, and, for the tail, Silver Butcher, Silver Invicta, Alexandra, and Dunkeld. More often than not, I fish them on either size 12 or 14 hooks.

The exception to the above is when I tackle up for little Loch Lanlish, the trout loch from hell. At times, nothing seems to work. Indeed, there are moments when I would swear that there was not a single fish in the loch. Nothing could be further from the truth. Suddenly, after several hours of fruitless casting, a rising trout will almost pull the rod from out of my hand. In days past, Loch Lanlish produced amazing trout in the teens of pounds and even today fish of up to and over 8lb in weight can still be caught. Sadly, however, so far, not by me.

Unforgettable
Lanlish lies to the south of Balnakeil Bay and when I first fished it, seeing anybody else was the exception rather than the rule. It is a much busier place now, being neighboured by a golf course, the sixth hole of which borders the loch. However, those engaged in ‘a good walk spoiled’ are required not to interfere, as they pass by, with the activities of angles.

The north, west and south shores offer easy and safe wading. But be circumspect before you put a foot in the water, particularly from the west bank. I learned this the hard way, when, looking back to the shore prior to filling my waders, I saw excellent trout rising behind me. Wading down the east bank can be a bit of a stumble because of the rocky bottom. However, half way down the bank there is a long, semi-submerged promontory which can be safely waded, well, reasonably safely. Next comes a small island, home to Arctic terns. In the early months of the season, keep well clear to avoid disturbing nesting birds.

One of the most unforgettable moments of my affair with Lanlish happened when I was fishing from this promontory. A trout, which I estimated to be nearer 10lb in weight, rather than 9lb, surreptitiously glided up from the depths, following my fly.

It came to within a few feet of where I was standing, performing miraculous contortions to keep the fly moving, and then turned away at the last moment. I can still see it, in my mind’s eye, disappearing back into the blue darkness of the deeper water. I don’t think that I will ever master Loch Lanlish, no matter how often I fish it, but I do know that I will keep on trying.

If you seek some of the most challenging fishing in Scotland, amongst some of Scotland’s most majestic scenery, then head for Durness and its famous limestone lochs. I promise that you will not be disappointed when you do. On a warm June evening, with the scent of wildflowers filling the air and the cry of curlew on the hill, there are few more wonderful places to fish. Catching anything is a supreme bonus and, for me, just being there is pleasure enough.

Factfile

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• Permission to fish Borralie and Lanlish, and also to rights on Caladail and Croispol through: Keodale Sheep Stock Club. For bookings and further information contact Martin Mackay on 01971 511255 or e-mail: martin@durnesslimestonlochs.co.uk
   
• A boat is also available on Loch Caladail through the Scourie Hotel. Tel. 01971 502396.
   
• Find you way around by using OS Map 9, Cape Wrath, Landranger Series, Scale 1:50,000. Durness, grid ref: 404677; Loch Caladail, grid ref: 397666; Loch Borralie, grid ref: 385672; Loch Croispol, grid ref: 390680; Loch Lanlish, grid ref: 386683.