FLY TYING
OTHER FLY TYING ARTICLES

CADDIS FEAST
DOUBLE TRIGGER
DEADLY DAMSELS
MAKING LIGHT OF PIKE
CDC & SEA TROUT
MIGHTY MIDGE
KINKY RUBBER LEGS
SALTY DOGS
BAITRUNNER
GOOD COMPANIONS
Blue-winged opportunities
Circular Argument
Mind the gap

Making light of pike

Armando Quazzo traces the rapid development of pike flies, and shows us a new breed of large floating lure, which is specially dressed for easy casting and deadly action.


Those who wrote about fly fishing centuries ago couldn't have imagined how things would have evolved. They would not be happy to see their beloved art of the 'lyne and angle' used to catch pike, a fish that in those days didn't even fall into the coarse fish category, a fish way below the status of the noble trout or salmon. Similarly, our founding fathers wouldn't have liked to see hordes of fly fishermen packed like sardines on the banks of reservoirs, casting heavy shooting heads armed with teams of so-called flies: Golden Nuggets, fluorescent lures, Boobies and Blobs. They could not have forecast the popularity of fishing, the pollution on a planetary scale, or the flocks of cormorants that became the Attilas of Europe's flowing and still waters.
Today's reality compels us to modify our fly fishing methodology and target our interest to less 'honourable' quarries which, nevertheless, have the capacity to light a flame in our fishing souls.

And the pike is one of them.

It became a winter quarry not because of its behaviour or attitude, but due to the fact that trout and salmon are not legally fishable during the winter months, and restless fishermen need to keep their passion alive!
For me, the passion started about twenty years ago in foggy Turin, a town by far more famous for its soccer teams than for its art galleries and gourmet restaurants. A late friend who was the proprietor of the very first fly fishing-only shop in Italy decided to award a fishing rod to the first person to catch a pike on the fly. Our fantasies as fly designers were charged by this challenge. We tried to understand the fish, which Nature has designed as a scaly version of Jack the Ripper, a cruel and terrible monster, capable of Formula One speed and equipped with rows of razor-sharp teeth and highly developed sight. Not everything proved true in this romantic version, however...
Tyers produced leaded and larger versions of existing patterns: from time to time we tin-welded two hooks together (a Bass Bug Stinger and a 6x long streamer hook) to make longer flies and have the bonus of the second hook facing upwards. The body was chenille and flanks were mounted with mallard breast feathers, jungle cock for the eyes and a gaudy red wool tail - an idea lifted from pike spoons we had seen.

These first flies were a nightmare to cast: they soaked up water like sponges and did not offer the right silhouette to the fish. Creativity stagnated until a video from the States introduced new concepts to fly fishing for pike: synthetics, motion, and flow of fibres.

Something that today seems normal wasn't so back in those early days: long, multi-coloured synthetic fibres which allowed the fisherman to use large size lures without being compelled to purchase oversize tackle. A 9ft 12-weight can be successfully used to cast a pair of boots, but what is the result of a day of continuous casting? Elbow inflammation worse than a tennis tournament at Wimbledon and a week of visits to the physio. Roman Moser from Austria, Reynolds and Berryman from the States and many other talented tyers were producing a breed of different lures. Deceiver-style streamers and large Eelworm Bunny Flies sold like hot cakes: everything from barracuda flies to clipped-hair Minnows that resembled a Rapala were used to convince reluctant pike to a take.

Tube revolution
The second revolution occurred with tube flies. The idea behind this was based on the necessity to avoid the use of monstrous hooks. Although manufacturers started to offer a wide variety of pike irons, a double sided problem still existed: on one side their weight implied the use of heavy lines, on the other the long leverage represented by the long shank constituted a big opportunity for the fish to unhook itself (by the way, this toothy critter does not have the raging power of a salmon, but it is surely capable of ruling the first moments of the battle with powerful, reel-bursting runs).
Some years of experimentation brought me to adopt the tube fly technique for this fly that I named the AQ Pike, and which gave me near-satisfactory results wherever I had the occasion to fish it.

It is quite a simple tube fly realised with Fishair fibres veiled with Flashabou and Krystalflash strands and with a voluminous clipped deer-hair Muddler-style head (synthetics addicts may substitute the clipped deer head with a more technological foam cylinder like Bob Popovics' Banger flies, but I am too much of a purist to abdicate in favour of the wholly synthetic philosophy).

Due to air resistance, the AQ Pike is far from being an easy fly to cast. Nevertheless it does not absorb gallons of water and - with the help of some line speed and a well balanced shooting taper - it can be the ticket for a non-tiring day's fishing.

Another important aspect is the size: this fly may draw the attention of a fish which, contrary to popular belief, does not possess good sight and needs a large lure to be enticed.

Last but not least, it tends to float. This feature allows the use of the sinking line plus floating fly to fish over weedbeds with extreme efficiency right where our predatory friends love to spend the largest part of their day waiting in ambush. The technique is quite simple: you cast the fly over the weedbed, let the line sink and retrieve with long steady pulls and pauses. Every time you pause, the lure will start to float towards the surface behaving like a dying minnow, a target a hungry pike can seldom resist.

Oh! I almost forgot; the competition for the first pike caught on the fly? The prize has been awarded to a friend of mine, who was only fishing a few yards from me - he only went and hooked the first toothy lunker on a fly I tied for him...


Hooks, tubes and rattles
A good size O'Shaughnessy bend hook (like Tiemco's 8089 or Mustad's 3407 or 3366) is perfect for the job. Double or treble hooks may be used too, but I have generally found that the singles offer better and stronger hooking as the weight of trebles makes the fly appear less convincing.

Pressure tubing may be purchased in hardware shops or shops where laboratory materials are sold. However, considered that the tubing will be covered, any kind of tubing will suit (anything from cotton buds to ball-point pen refills). I purchased a coil of 25mm diameter vinyl tubing some years ago and still keep clippings of material from that source (for the hook holder I found the suitable material in a modelling shop: it was the gas tubing for airplane engines).

My friend Paolo Pacchiarini ties a glass rattle along the hook shank of his flies to wake an apathetic pike some distance away; I can assure you this really does work.

Part of an article taken from October 2002 issue of Fly Fishing and Fly Tying, which also includes a
deadly dozen from the continental pike fly box, and features "One of the best - a terrific catcher, anywhere".


Tying AQ's pike fly

AQ Pike Fly


Mount: One inch (2.5cm) lengths of plastic tube and pressure tube.
Thread: 3/0 tying thread.
Wing: White and red Fishair, Flashabou, Krystalflash or other reflective materials.
Head: White deer hair.
Eyes: Doll eyes, 7 or 10mm (depending on how much you want your fly to float), stuck in postion with Superglue, or a rubber-based or melt n glue.


1. Cut about 1 inch of 1/8 inch plastic tubing, along with a similar length of vinyl tubing that will be used as the hook holder; the latter must snugly fit into the 1/8-inch tubing.
Every tube of this size has its own curvature: align the two tubings and try to match the curvature of the two sections (see pic), otherwise the fly will twist in the air during casting motion and spin when retrieved, causing the leader to twist.


2.
Mark the top of the curve of the tube with a felt pen after inserting it into the tube holder in your vice: this will be the top part of your fly.

3. Tie on thread and on the front part of the thicker tube and distribute on the top and on the sides of the lure three bunches of white Fishair of the length you desire. Do not lose time at this stage trying to give the tail a taper, you will do it later with taperizing scissors when the fly is completed.

4. Follow the same procedure with a layer of pearl Flashabou (or other reflective material) always leaving the rear portion of the thicker tube free: here is where the hook will sit. A knot and a drop of glue will make the fly more resistant.

5. Continue with the tying thread and tie a second series of Fishair fibres, a little shorter than before; the fly must be rich and plump; knot and glue again.

6. The third series of Fishair fibres should be red and even shorter; tied in using the same technique used above, except it will be collar-like and run around the whole tube (it will not interfere with the hook point).

7. A short collar of red Krystalflash gives the fly a more flashy appearance. Knot and glue again.

8. Start now with deer hair, trying to create a Muddler-style collar and head. The hair must be even and will partially cover the red Fishair.

9. Spin the deer-hair to complete the head working onto the narrower tube at the front of the fly.

10. Pack your spun hair several times, since the tighter you pack it, the stronger the fly will be. Interlock hair bundles with knot and glue, as always.

Note: Except for the very first strands of hair (those that overlap the red collar) snip off the tips of the hair. It will spin more easily you can use the lower section of the hair which has a larger diameter, is more buoyant and takes less time to build up the head.

11.Having spun sufficient hair, whip finish.

12.Some shaping is now required; give the head a bullet shape by cutting off the lower portion using curved scissors, then follow the curvature of the scissors to finish the cut.

Note: The secret here is to start with the scissor blades at right angles, then to snip off hair using the already snipped portion as a guideline for the following cuts.

13.Create two slots for the eyes: we want to nearly bury them into their sockets to provide a firmer base and protect them from damage while casting.

14.Dab a little hot glue or some rubber-based adhesive to secure them in place (Superglue is not suitable for this as it's too runny to apply and brittle once dry).

15.Snip the fly wings with a pair of taperizer scissors to avoid the paintbrush effect (so often seen on commercially tied flies) and - Voila! you're ready to go!