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Making
light of pike
Armando
Quazzo traces the rapid development of pike flies,
and shows us a new breed of large floating lure, which
is specially dressed for easy casting and deadly action.
Those who wrote about fly fishing centuries ago couldn't
have imagined how things would have evolved. They
would not be happy to see their beloved art of the
'lyne and angle' used to catch pike, a fish that in
those days didn't even fall into the coarse fish category,
a fish way below the status of the noble trout or
salmon. Similarly, our founding fathers wouldn't have
liked to see hordes of fly fishermen packed like sardines
on the banks of reservoirs, casting heavy shooting
heads armed with teams of so-called flies: Golden
Nuggets, fluorescent lures, Boobies and Blobs. They
could not have forecast the popularity of fishing,
the pollution on a planetary scale, or the flocks
of cormorants that became the Attilas of Europe's
flowing and still waters.
Today's reality compels us to modify our fly fishing
methodology and target our interest to less 'honourable'
quarries which, nevertheless, have the capacity to
light a flame in our fishing souls.
And the pike is one of them.
It became a winter quarry not because of its behaviour
or attitude, but due to the fact that trout and salmon
are not legally fishable during the winter months,
and restless fishermen need to keep their passion
alive!
For me, the passion started about twenty years ago
in foggy Turin, a town by far more famous for its
soccer teams than for its art galleries and gourmet
restaurants. A late friend who was the proprietor
of the very first fly fishing-only shop in Italy decided
to award a fishing rod to the first person to catch
a pike on the fly. Our fantasies as fly designers
were charged by this challenge. We tried to understand
the fish, which Nature has designed as a scaly version
of Jack the Ripper, a cruel and terrible monster,
capable of Formula One speed and equipped with rows
of razor-sharp teeth and highly developed sight. Not
everything proved true in this romantic version, however...
Tyers produced leaded and larger versions of existing
patterns: from time to time we tin-welded two hooks
together (a Bass Bug Stinger and a 6x long streamer
hook) to make longer flies and have the bonus of the
second hook facing upwards. The body was chenille
and flanks were mounted with mallard breast feathers,
jungle cock for the eyes and a gaudy red wool tail
- an idea lifted from pike spoons we had seen.
These first flies were a nightmare to cast: they soaked
up water like sponges and did not offer the right
silhouette to the fish. Creativity stagnated until
a video from the States introduced new concepts to
fly fishing for pike: synthetics, motion, and flow
of fibres.
Something that today seems normal wasn't so back in
those early days: long, multi-coloured synthetic fibres
which allowed the fisherman to use large size lures
without being compelled to purchase oversize tackle.
A 9ft 12-weight can be successfully used to cast a
pair of boots, but what is the result of a day of
continuous casting? Elbow inflammation worse than
a tennis tournament at Wimbledon and a week of visits
to the physio. Roman Moser from Austria, Reynolds
and Berryman from the States and many other talented
tyers were producing a breed of different lures. Deceiver-style
streamers and large Eelworm Bunny Flies sold like
hot cakes: everything from barracuda flies to clipped-hair
Minnows that resembled a Rapala were used to convince
reluctant pike to a take.
Tube revolution
The second revolution occurred with tube flies. The
idea behind this was based on the necessity to avoid
the use of monstrous hooks. Although manufacturers
started to offer a wide variety of pike irons, a double
sided problem still existed: on one side their weight
implied the use of heavy lines, on the other the long
leverage represented by the long shank constituted
a big opportunity for the fish to unhook itself (by
the way, this toothy critter does not have the raging
power of a salmon, but it is surely capable of ruling
the first moments of the battle with powerful, reel-bursting
runs).
Some years of experimentation brought me to adopt
the tube fly technique for this fly that I named the
AQ Pike, and which gave me near-satisfactory results
wherever I had the occasion to fish it.
It is quite a simple tube fly realised with Fishair
fibres veiled with Flashabou and Krystalflash strands
and with a voluminous clipped deer-hair Muddler-style
head (synthetics addicts may substitute the clipped
deer head with a more technological foam cylinder
like Bob Popovics' Banger flies, but I am too much
of a purist to abdicate in favour of the wholly synthetic
philosophy).
Due to air resistance, the AQ Pike is far from being
an easy fly to cast. Nevertheless it does not absorb
gallons of water and - with the help of some line
speed and a well balanced shooting taper - it can
be the ticket for a non-tiring day's fishing.
Another important aspect is the size: this fly may
draw the attention of a fish which, contrary to popular
belief, does not possess good sight and needs a large
lure to be enticed.
Last but not least, it tends to float. This feature
allows the use of the sinking line plus floating fly
to fish over weedbeds with extreme efficiency right
where our predatory friends love to spend the largest
part of their day waiting in ambush. The technique
is quite simple: you cast the fly over the weedbed,
let the line sink and retrieve with long steady pulls
and pauses. Every time you pause, the lure will start
to float towards the surface behaving like a dying
minnow, a target a hungry pike can seldom resist.
Oh! I almost forgot; the competition for the first
pike caught on the fly? The prize has been awarded
to a friend of mine, who was only fishing a few yards
from me - he only went and hooked the first toothy
lunker on a fly I tied for him...
Hooks, tubes and rattles
A good size O'Shaughnessy bend hook (like Tiemco's
8089 or Mustad's 3407 or 3366) is perfect for the
job. Double or treble hooks may be used too, but I
have generally found that the singles offer better
and stronger hooking as the weight of trebles makes
the fly appear less convincing.
Pressure tubing may be purchased in hardware shops
or shops where laboratory materials are sold. However,
considered that the tubing will be covered, any kind
of tubing will suit (anything from cotton buds to
ball-point pen refills). I purchased a coil of 25mm
diameter vinyl tubing some years ago and still keep
clippings of material from that source (for the hook
holder I found the suitable material in a modelling
shop: it was the gas tubing for airplane engines).
My friend Paolo Pacchiarini ties a glass rattle along
the hook shank of his flies to wake an apathetic pike
some distance away; I can assure you this really does
work.
Part of an article taken from October 2002 issue
of Fly Fishing and Fly Tying, which also includes
a
deadly dozen from the continental pike fly box, and
features "One
of the best - a terrific catcher, anywhere".
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Tying
AQ's pike fly
AQ Pike Fly
Mount: One inch (2.5cm) lengths of plastic
tube and pressure tube.
Thread: 3/0 tying thread.
Wing: White and red Fishair, Flashabou, Krystalflash
or other reflective materials.
Head: White deer hair.
Eyes: Doll eyes, 7 or 10mm (depending on how
much you want your fly to float), stuck in postion
with Superglue, or a rubber-based or melt n glue.
1. Cut about 1 inch of 1/8 inch plastic tubing,
along with a similar length of vinyl tubing that will
be used as the hook holder; the latter must snugly
fit into the 1/8-inch tubing.
Every tube of this size has its own curvature: align
the two tubings and try to match the curvature of
the two sections (see pic), otherwise the fly will
twist in the air during casting motion and spin when
retrieved, causing the leader to twist.

2. Mark
the top of the curve of the tube with a felt pen after
inserting it into the tube holder in your vice: this
will be the top part of your fly.
3.
Tie
on thread and on the front part of the thicker tube
and distribute on the top and on the sides of the
lure three bunches of white Fishair of the length
you desire. Do not lose time at this stage trying
to give the tail a taper, you will do it later with
taperizing scissors when the fly is completed.
4.
Follow
the same procedure with a layer of pearl Flashabou
(or other reflective material) always leaving the
rear portion of the thicker tube free: here is where
the hook will sit. A knot and a drop of glue will
make the fly more resistant.
5.
Continue with the tying thread and tie a second series
of Fishair fibres, a little shorter than before; the
fly must be rich and plump; knot and glue again.
6.
The
third series of Fishair fibres should be red and even
shorter; tied in using the same technique used above,
except it will be collar-like and run around the whole
tube (it will not interfere with the hook point).
7.
A short collar of red Krystalflash gives the fly a
more flashy appearance. Knot and glue again.
8.
Start
now with deer hair, trying to create a Muddler-style
collar and head. The hair must be even and will partially
cover the red Fishair.
9.
Spin the deer-hair to complete the head working onto
the narrower tube at the front of the fly.
10.
Pack
your spun hair several times, since the tighter you
pack it, the stronger the fly will be. Interlock hair
bundles with knot and glue, as always.
Note: Except for the very first strands of
hair (those that overlap the red collar) snip off
the tips of the hair. It will spin more easily you
can use the lower section of the hair which has a
larger diameter, is more buoyant and takes less time
to build up the head.
11.Having
spun sufficient hair, whip finish.
12.Some
shaping is now required; give the head a bullet shape
by cutting off the lower portion using curved scissors,
then follow the curvature of the scissors to finish
the cut.
Note:
The secret here is to start with the scissor blades
at right angles, then to snip off hair using the already
snipped portion as a guideline for the following cuts.
13.Create
two slots for the eyes: we want to nearly bury them
into their sockets to provide a firmer base and protect
them from damage while casting.
14.Dab
a little hot glue or some rubber-based adhesive to
secure them in place (Superglue is not suitable for
this as it's too runny to apply and brittle once dry).
15.Snip
the fly wings with a pair of taperizer scissors to
avoid the paintbrush effect (so often seen on commercially
tied flies) and - Voila! you're ready to go!
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