Salmon on the Whisky Trail

Bruce Sandison samples the good things in life on the River Avon, a major tributary of the Spey which enjoyed a fruitful year in 1998.

The River Avon is a major tributary of the mighty Spey and few other Scottish salmon streams have a more dramatic birth. But first, let's get the pronunciation right. Although spelt in the same way as Mr Shakespeare's Stratford delight, Scotland's Avon is pronounced A'an, after the original Gaelic name of the river. Inquiries to local people will be met with blank stares. Say A'an and all will be revealed. Reaching the source of the river is less easy and involves some serious leg-work deep into the heart of the Cairngorm mountains. The birth-place of the river is Loch Avon, one and a half miles long by up to a quarter of a mile wide and guarded by some of Scotland's most dramatic peaks; Cairngorm to the north, Beinn Mheadhoin to the east. Beinn Macdui, second in height (1308m) only to Scotland's highest peak, Ben Nevis, towers to the south. The infant Avon tumbles from this magnificent glen on the start of its 50-mile long journey through the wilderness to greet the fast-flowing Spey by the old castle of Ballindalloch.

Along the way, the Avon collects in the waters from a number of important feeder streams: Builg Burn, draining Loch Builg by the ruins of Builg Lodge; the Water of Ailnack, cascading down from The Castle on Geal Charn Beag (759m); Conglass Water, which flows through the high hamlet of Tomintoul; the Burn of Lochy enters the Avon at Milton. The most significant tributary, however, is the River Livet which rises in the Glenfiddich Forest. The Livet is as well-known for its sporting prowess as it is for the famous whiskey produced there; distinctive, perfect, comforting, the ideal fishing companion. The Glenlivet distillation is amongst the finest of Scotland's many fine single malts. Look for the note on the label which says: "Distilled by George & JG Smith". This is the genuine article. George Smith and his son, John Gordon Smith, started the business in about 1850. In 1880, they were granted the exclusive designation of "The Glenlivet".

I know that this is a fishing article, but it is almost impossible to write about the Avon and Spey without having a dram or two or three along the way. This is the centre of all that is best about Scotland's national drink and not to sample a few of these highly memorable whiskeys during your visit would, in my opinion, amount to nothing other than criminal negligence. To help you decide which to sample, I humbly offer for your consideration some of my personal favourites: Glenfarclas, the 18-year old, or even nicer, the 25-year old; the 12-year old Cragganmore, distilled near the Ballindalloch beats on the Spey; The Macallan; any on offer, from the 10-year old to the 25-year old will warm and brighten the dourest of days. There are many more. With a little careful, happy, research, you are bound to find the one that suits you best.

Fishing the Ballindalloch beats of the Ribver Avon will do the same for your angling sensibilities. The first six miles, upstream from the castle, produce the most consistent sport; particularly from the Pump Pool from the old Bridge of Avon to the mouth of the River Livet. These are known as the Lower Beats, divided into six, each carrying two rods. Rods 'rotate' through the beats on a daily basis. There are 30 named pools and during the course of a week's stay anglers have the opportunity of fishing each pool twice. Fishing on the Lower Beats is by fly rod only, but spinning will be permitted at the proprietor's discretion if water conditions are adjudged to be unsuitable for fly fishing. The beats are very carefully managed. Prawning, worming or foul hooking fish is strictly prohibited and any one found breaking these rules will be banned from the river.

Access to the river is user-friendly from the public and private roads bordering each bank. However, in wet weather some of the tracks can be muddy and caution is required when using them in anything other than a 4-wheel drive vehicle. Fishing guests are provided with excellent maps of the access routes and beats and an estate gillie is available to help newcomers to the stream. All the fishing is double bank, except for the Livet Mouth upstream to the march with the neighbouring Crown Estate where fishing is from the left bank only. This upper section of the river is known as Beat A and day permits are sometimes available on the beat to casual visitors. This is also the only part of the Ballindalloch fishings where worming is permitted, up until 31st August.

There are wonderful 'concessions' for non-fishing members of your party, not the least of which is a close inspection of Ballindalloch Castle itself. The castle has been the home of the Macpherson-Grant family for more than 450 years and is known as the 'Pearl of the North'. The original front entrance, to the west of the present building, opens up into a splendid circular stone staircase which winds heaven-wards to the cap-house, or "Watch Tower". The old tower was plundered and burned by the Marquess of Montrose during the turbulent years of the Scottish religious wars of the mid-17th Century, after which substantial 'damage repair work' was required. In 1770, General William Grant added two new wings, but the major extensions to the castle took place in 1850, by Sir John Macpherson-Grant, and, in 1878, by his son, Sir George Macpherson-Grant. Sir George was also responsible for founding the world-famous herd of Ballindalloch Aberdeen-Angus cattle.

The castle and polices are open to the public. Ballindalloch has an outstanding collection of 17th Century Spanish paintings, 18th Century pistols and Scottish swords and dirks. Most of the furniture is 18th Century and there are some fine pieces of Chinese porcelain. The library contains 2,500 volumes and is said to be one of the best country house libraries of its kind on Scotland.

The castle is also well-endowed with ghosts. The Pink Tower, dating from 1546, is one of the original bedrooms and holds the spirit of an unknown woman; seen sitting in a chair, dressed in a pink crinoline gown and large straw hat. The spirit of General James Grant is alleged to review his estate every night mounted on a white horse. The sad ghost of a daughter of the castle, jilted in love, has been seen crossing the old Bridge of Avon in the evening to post a letter to her errant lover.

Avon anglers are more fortunate in pursuit of their pleasure, the wild salmon and sea-trout which run the river. The four-year salmon and grilse average for the beats is a highly respectable 246 fish. During the same period, sea-trout catches averaged 168 fish. Salmon weigh approximately 9lb, sea-trout average 2lb 12oz. The river also produces some excellent brown trout which average 1lb in weight. The 1998 season was one of the best in recent years. 456 salmon and grilse were taken along with 181 sea-trout with July and August being the most productive months. However, the Avon does not give up its treasure easily. The water is crystal clear, rising from the granite base of the Cairngorm crags. Casting 'fine and far off' is often the only way of getting your fly to the fish without spooking them. There are outstanding holding pools, such as Boat and Rock Pools on Beat 1B and Dalmenanach and Lower Haugh on Beat 2. The faster-flowing streams provide delightful fly-fishing water: Grays Run, Slab Run and the Island Stream.

Flies that entice include Silver Stoat's Tail, Garry Dog, Munro Killer, Ally's Shrimp and Willie Gunn. Vary the size according to water levels. Indeed, the more I fish the more convinced I am that size is more important than pattern style, and, of course, how the fly is presented. In the summer months, a single-handed 11ft rod will cope with most eventualities, in the early and late months of the season, a double-handed rod of 13ft/14ft would be more appropriate. Although the Spey season opens in February, fish don't usually reach the Avon until April, when a few are caught, but from then on the runs build up and good sport may be had right through until the season closes on 30th September. But fishing the Avon is about far more than just catching, or trying to catch fish. The river has a special magic, unique to the gentle loveliness of the land through which it flows, intimate and welcoming. No matter when you decide to launch your assault, you will find a small piece of paradise waiting, guarded by the graceful bulk of Ballindalloch Castle.

Article taken from September/October 1999 issue of Fly Fishing & Fly Tying.